Thank you!
My unforgettable overland journey across North America: from Alaska to Mexico, from the Arctic Circle to the Tropic of Cancer (7 September - 14 November 2005)
Today I've uploaded some pictures about my American adventure on this blog. Problems are still the same: scanning from slides the quality results not so good and colors are sometimes fake. But I guess they're able to enrich my travel diary while some of them look pretty cool. Check them all out and feel free to leave your comments here!!!
Home sweet home. I arrived today in Milan from Ireland and it's time to turn back to the usual boring life to realize that this journey is really over... During this months I enjoyed many different situations and I can't stop thinking back about all the amazing people I met and the adventures I experienced on the road. How could I forget the Norwegian sky reflecting the sunset over its lakes; the endless Alaskan forests and hills; the sunny days spent biking along the Yukon river or having fun in American cities; the unbelievable sceneries of National Parks and canyons with their villages; the ocean and the desert, the mountains and the beaches... and all the places where I slept: my tent, on a bus, at bus stations, in airports, on a ferry coach, in a motorhome... and then Mexico, hitchiking, the cold nights, all the stars high in the sky, the northern rain, Germany, Ireland, the beer... and obviously all the interesting people I've met on my way: I'll miss you all greatly and I'm looking forward to have news from you as soon as possible. Too many wonderful memories. The reality is that I'm understanding now I've became travel-addicted and I still would be ready to leave for anywhere... Moreover, I strongly believe this blog won't end up here: time to stop hasn't come for me yet... Stay connected in the very next days for news and for a look to the photos I've taken! Never give it up and keep on going, man!!!
Time to go back... sigh!!! We landed from Los Angeles to Dublin, the crowdy capital of my beloved Ireland. I personally don't like that city too much, in particular if comparred to the gorgeous sceneries could offer the rest of the island. For that reason we didn't spend there too much time... just enough for a pilgrimage to the amazing Guinness Brewery in St. James Gate, where we learnt how to draught the "black gold perfect pint", and for a visit to the other Dublin main sights: Trinity College and Temple Bar. On a shitty car we quickly reached Newgrange, which is well known for the most important celtic megalithic tomb, and then we continued to discover the ancient taste of Ireland going west to Clonmacnoise - a site famous for its ruins showing the oldest Christian building complex in the whole Northern Europe. According to the mood of my trip we moved to the Irish west coast, which is absolutely stunning and definetely better than the east one. So we went on Achill Island, County Mayo, in the less touristical area of Ireland but the more charming too. Achill Island is an undiscovered tourist-free natural shrine: the slower way of living can make you feel the breeze of real Ireland past times while the thrilling views over the cliffs are lovely to see the stormy sea roaring closer to an emerald field full of quiet sheeps. Connemara, Galway, County Clare... all those places we crossed meant only one thing to me: time to come back home has come.
My last post I was in San Diego... from there I moved to Las Vegas (Nevada) where I met Oliver and some other friends to travel by car the great southwest US National Parks. But before that we gambled in "the city of sin" an we enjoyed pig-like dinners in casino`s all-you-can-eat buffets... From Las Vegas I cannot describe the beauty of all the parks we`ve seen... maybe when I`ll post the photos it`ll be easy to understand what I mean, more than any many words... We headed to Red Rock Canyon, and then we went to Arizona for the amazing views of Grand Canyon. Then to Utah to visit the incredible colorful parks of Bryce and Zion: it`s unbelievable the views they can offer!!! Back to Nevada for a stroll in the desertic Death Valley, which is the lowest point in US, many feet beneath the sea level, and then straight to California to see the alpine settings of Yosemite National Park. One day in Frisco and then to the beautiful costal route of Big Sur toward Los Angeles, after 2600 miles tour, where I`m actually writing from. The weather is lightly rainy and we`re going to take the flight back to Europe... We`ll miss USA but... stay tuned!!! More news soon to come!!!
2600 km, 40 hours of bus and an endless number of military checkpoints later, I arrived in Tijuana, close to the Californian border. It's time for me to leave Mexico, but I really enjoyed my time among Mexicans. It's also incredible thinking how many preconcepts there are on certain countries. Asking infos about Mexico all around the US, I was scared to travel here: almost everybody told me it's a very dangerous country for tourists as it's easy to be assaulted and killed too... But I've experienced a different reality, people has always been friendly to me and I've never felt unsafe. A guy I met in Alaska said that "Americans tend to be scared for everything"... I don't know who's right, from Guanajuato I could see the shape of "Cristo Rey" - the geographical centre of Mexico: for this time I've just seen Mexico's heart, next time I'll try to touch its soul.
I've arrived today in Guanajuato, a beautiful town not far from Mexico City, considered the best colonial city in the whole Americas. This was the reachest Mexican city in the past, and 20% of all the world silver was extracted from here. Moreover, yesterday I crossed the Tropic of Cancer, I've come a really long way from the Arctic Circle to here but the mission is officialy completed... By the way, for that occasion yesterday I also had a great dinner in a just-for-locals tacqueria: I spent a little bit, about 12 dollars, but I ate 2 Alambres with meat (which means more than 12 tortillas...), 2 tacos, 1 quesadilla and 2 Coronas... It's useless to say I also had some mezcal as it's useless to say the night was fulfilled by nightmares... Well, I gotta go now; there's an international festival here, and all the town is a big party... Let's go!!!
Two regional buses and a thrilling overcrowded stinking bus among crying children and indios (plus a military stop searching for money or drugs...) brought me to Durango, where I had a stop over to see the city. Plaza des armes and its cathedral is nice but the most exciting thing for me is looking at all the cowboys. They're everywhere, seems to fall into a John Wayne's movie!!! I continued the way South to the beautiful Zacatecas, an ancient colonial city where I've discovered the pleasures of "Mezcal" (a sort of rough tequila: 1 litre for 1 dollar!!!) and the great taste of "Alambre" (is not a drug but a food!) suggested to me by some Mexican guys that also offered me a cerveza. Wow... all these writing is getting me hungry now... it's time to go eating and having some booze!!!
...And I arrived in Creel, a little mountain town - at 2400 mt high - near the Copper Canyon area. My original plan was to take the train to Los Mochis but checking out at tourist info I knew there were better trips to do (I'm always scheptical about Lonely Planet suggests on train trips: I was in Norway and there was the most scenic train route in the world, in Alaska the best trip by train in the world, and in Mexico? Barranca del Cobre they say is the most impressive train route in the world... But I had already experienced that train trips cannot be panoramic as a car road and they also don't give you a chance to take photos). So I joined a group of cool guys I've been lucky to meet there (Andrea from Germany, Soeren from Denmark, Maria & Jussi from Finland and Will from Usa: thanx you all, see u soon in Europe!!!) that were renting a jeep to drive through Barranca del Cobre and Sierra moutains. What a wonderful sceneries and what a great road that was!!! For the paved part of the road I stayed in the open rear side of pick-up; even if not so comfortable I really enjoyed it! I loved to taste the Mexican warm sun upon my skin and the wind blowing to my hairs with an electric blue sky surrounding all over me... When the road became dusty and dumpy I entered the jeep to look at the amazing views on the way to Batopilas - a quiet and cozy mining town settled in the middle of mountains (and in the middle of marijuana fields too...). Here is where Tarahumare indios live; I've seen many of them and I cryed to have left at home the proper lenses for taking good photos to their colorful clothes and people. Not too bad, next time!
From El Paso (Texas) I crossed the border and I jumped to Mexico!!! I quickly passed through Ciudad Juarez, considered one of the most dangerous cities for its infamous "feminicides" and for the strong drug cartels. So I arrived in Chihuahua while on the road toward there I've met some funny folks... In this region you can see the real "cowboys", those not for fiction but for way of living. Almost everybody wear large hats, shining belts, leather boots and it seems to me to turn back the years... Great!
Well, I've finally found an internet cafe'... I arrived in Albuquerque (New Mexico) last night just in time to sleep in the bus station... From there I reached Santa Fe, tha capitol of the State and one of the oldest cities in Usa. It's a very nice town, with many ancient buildings and a true mexican taste (even if it's overcrowded by elder america tourists...). It's easier to hear speaking Spanish than English here; as the name shows, the mexican border is really close and all of these territories were mexicans in a past not too far. By the way, I headed to Taos for a visit to the amazing Taos Pueblo, a incredible adobe village (which means built just with mud...) where indios still live without electricity: a world heritage considered one of the main examples for that architectural structure. To get there I've got a short lift from John & Shelley from Alaska, which was quite fun. The adventure must never ends...
Nobody knows where we`re heading in our lives; about myself I don`t even know where I`m heading on this journey... infact from Tucson I had a little detour from my plan to Salt Lake City (Utah) and then to Denver (Colorado), where I`m actually writing from. Besides home of the 2002 Winter Olympic games, Salt Lake City is the world capital of mormon church and it has been really interesting learning about their beliefs, visiting the ancient Temple Square - the place where the first mormon settled the city - and all the other historical sights. Actually mormons are nearby 12 millions all over the world, they believe in Jesus and the main difference to the Christian religion is that they have a living prophete (which is actually also the president of the whole organization...). I don`t wanna post comments about religion: everybody is free to believe what they prefer and I cannot say if something is right or wrong. But let me notice (and I`m surprised of it!) how some religions here are structured more as a business than a "spiritual healing" community. In L.A., Scientology members were offering on the streets free "happiness tests" or free leaflets how to live and enjoy a better life. Remarkable - I thought - these guys wanna make the Earth a paradise! Then I noticed how the Scientology logo were always well hidden and how they were so interested in getting your personal information. Another fake messiah is just waiting for the paradise of its pocket... Everybody should visit the mormons headoffice building, it`s a huge skyscraper you`re expecting for Wall Street Stock Exchange more than a church!!! By the way, today I wandered around in Denver and I went in Larimer Street too. Does anybody know why I went there? Send me your answer, if it`s the right one you`ll win a free Scientology test...
I left yesterday some interesting people in the vibrant San Diego friday night for a bus to Tucson, Arizona. The first surprise has been that the bus was fully booked and I`ve been packed on a front seat near a young marine coming back home from the army... He started talking me that in his previous life was a warrior, and sometimes he has visions of ancient Ireland. He said the Holy Graal was a female, then he shown me his huge knife (always kept with him, without he said to feel unsafe...) and all the tecniques how to throw it... Oh! And at home he said to have many blades and a sword he usually like to sleep with...
I spent great times in L.A.; walking down Hollywood Boulevard I met Tom Cruise and together we went to a big party in Playboy Mansion where I had sex both with Angelina Jolie and Cameron Diaz... but when I woke up I was only on a bus to San Diego... Night life is amazing here, but in all honesty I still cannot stand these cities: public transportation is unbelievable bad, while the different city centres are located many miles far from each other and connected by 10 lanes roads... And there`s more here in San Diego, airplanes land directly on your head `cause the airport is in the middle of downtown...
It`s my third day here in Los Angeles and I start to feel the need to leave... I`m staying in Hollywood and all the city acts like a movie: it`s completely crazy!!! Here fiction is not too far from reality and everything looks like a TV show. Among many sights I visited the Universal Studios and then I went to Disneyland where, as a doctor, I had maybe the highlight of the whole journey, taking a photo with Mickey Mouse... Today I went to Santa Monica and Venice Beach, it`s very nice and funny to look at all the freaks there... But now it`s time to move away!!!
What a beautiful city is San Francisco!!! A lot of fun here... It`s one of that places that requires a whole holiday to discover and enjoy... I`m really sad to leave but I must go, my bus pass is expiring very soon and I wanna move South, even if I`ll be back here next month! By the way, today it was Columbus Day (an american-italian holiday in memory of Cristoforo Colombo) and there were parades all over the city: colorful and funny!!! Moreover, it was the "Fleet week" with the Blue Angels acrobatic team all day long high in the sky. I had also an interesting visit to City Lights bookstore, which was starting point of beat generation and first editor of the main writers... But San Francisco is also the hometown for Metallica, and in my mind I cannot stop thinking about this song that`s perfect for what I`m living now:
If last week it was wintertime for me, now I reached California and there`s a beautiful summer sun. I went in Sacramento, the capital of the state, where I stored a part of my luggage that was too heavy to continue and then I`ve had also some great deals: I entered a Salvation Army "Thrift Store" and I bought 3 shirts and a t-shirts, all for 5 bucks total... I felt very safe thinking that "Terminator" was working there to protect all the people... Then I decided that it was better for me to have a short trip to Nevada, instead of paying for an hostel... So I`ve slept on a bus for Reno, that arrived at 1 am, I gambled all night long, and I came back to Sacramento on the 7,30 am bus... That`s what I`ve done!!! And after another bus connection I finally arrived in great San Francisco (California) where I wandered around a little bit, I went in Chinatown and I had some beers in Jack Kerouac`s favourite bar.
A night bus and I arrived in Vancouver (British Columbia, Canada) where I had an hostel in the worst neighborhood of the city. I cannot say Vancouver isn`t nice, it`s settled between mountains and sea and offers some good views, but it`s too big for my choice. Same for Seattle (Washington State, Usa): it`s the mother of grunge music, Bill Gates` and Boeing`s home. Beside that, cities here are completely different to the European ones; I`m astonished by the absence of a"real" city center, and they look like the asphalt jungles in my nightmares... I`m also surprised by the endless nymber oh homeless people living the alleys, while I feel myself breathless being surrounded by all those huge skyscrapers and buildings. What can I do, maybe I`m just a simple country boy... Actually I`m writing from Portland (Oregon, Usa).
Hi there! After my last post I`ve done many miles, and I`m fastly reaching South. Northern landscapes are amazing but is getting too cold now and I`m tired of rainy and foggy days! Well... I spent a night in Banff - a lovely mountain town and I decided to reach Jasper along the parkway road, through the Banff and Jasper National Parks. That one is considered the most scenic drive of the all Rocky Mountains, so I couldn`t miss it!!! Because of the bus connections lack, I decided to get a lift but before I had to walk few km out of Banff under a light snow. I took a ride from an Australian guy to an highway junction, where I had to wait for a lot of time... When I was quite completely frozen by a chilly mountain wind, I`ve got a lift from Al Horton - a very kind guy working there for the parks. He has been thw very best guide for me, tellin` me everything about thr parks and driving me directly to Jasper, after some visits to the amazing Lake Louise, Moraine and Pejto (which they`re not on the main road). I was really impressed about those mountains, I expected great sceneries but they`ve been too much... unforgettable... More than 250 km in a valley looking like Dolomites, surrounded by huge mountains with incredible colours: the turquoise of lakes and rivers, the yellow of trees and the snow... Then, to end such a beautiful day, nothing`s better than eating nachos and drinking beer in lovely Jasper. Thanks Al!!!
After 2 days on a ferry to cover the inside passage to Prince Rupert (British Columbia, Canada) I`ve bought a 21 days bus ticket valid for western Canada and Usa. So I took the bus from there to Prince George and then a nightly service to Calgary (Alberta) where I`m actually now. I went on the top of the city tower (which was ridiculous expensive...) and now I`m waiting for the bus to Banff, where I`ll overnight and where tomorrow I`ll explore the national park in the middle of Canadian Rocky Mountains.
Back to Alaska!!! I`m in Juneau, the capital city of this state, and I reached it after a 6 hours ferry from Skagway (where I had a good hike to Dewey lake). The city is pretty good, even if really small. It`s considered the little San Francisco `cause of the many hills that surround it and the ocean view. It was a pleasure for me to stroll in the main street looking for good fall season`s sale, but now it`s time to leave... and tomorrow I`ll get a 2 days ferry to Prince Rupert, Canada.
Another beautiful day for outdoor sports has gone. I`ve taken a different shitty bike from the hostel and I`ve cycled to the beautiful surroundings of Long Lake, then I `ve headed to the summit of Grey Mountain for an amazing view of the Yukon river and valley. It has been pretty tough, with more than 11 km uphills on a gravel track, but I loved it. Cycling to the top of a mountain in Yukon Territories... sounds really cool!!! Oh, just a big shame: I waited up there in the cold wind for taking photos at sunset... and when the sky turned into incredible colours all the valley, the batteries of the camera were dead... Too bad!
What a beautiful day I`ve had today in Whitehorse! In the morning I`ve walked to the downtown where I`ve seen the historical "SS Klondike" steamboat and the MacBride Museum of Yukon. Then I`ve taken a shitty bicycle from the hostel and I`ve headed to the Miles Canyon. It has been a wonderful sunny day and what a gorgeous trip I had on the quiet gravel roads along the Yukon river!!! Maybe I`m a dreamer, but is there something cooler than wandering around such an historical river (even one of the longest of the world) on a bike, just with the northern wind singing for you? The canyon has been remarkable and from there I`ve also had a short hike to Canyon City, which was a settlement in the goldrush era, while now is still possible to see all the rusty cans that pioneers ate... Charming. And I`ve taken a photo to a miner statue which has a sign dedicated to "all those who follow their dreams": that`s the true spirit of Yukon. Pioneers came here searching for gold, but it doesn`t matter whatever you do or wherever you are: keep on searching, man, maybe you`ll find your own Eldorado...
Here I am... That`s a brief resume of these last days I lived in the far North... For three nights I`ve slept in a Joe`s friend wooden cabin in "Goldstream Valley", few miles north of Fairbanks. Great place!!! Then it was time to moving on, so I went to North Pole (!!!) for a short visit at Santa Claus House... After that I had to move toward the Canadian border so I`ve hitchiked on the way to Tok. It has been tough to get a ride there but finally I had a lift from Karma - the prettiest girl of Delta Junction - and later from a terrible driver, marijuana-smoker guy, who brought me to a youth hostel in the forest, south of Tok. There was just one problem: the hostel was completely messed up and closed, while it was getting really late and dark... So I`ve been smart enough to check the reception door; it was unlocked and inside that room (among an incredible mess) there was an heater turned on and current water... enough for me to overnight there!!! The day after I had to wait for a long time to hitch a ride, but I finally reached the junction to the "Top of the world highway" (the only way to go to Dawson City from Alaska). That highway is usually closed from mid of September, and now it will be closed from the 25. Even if some people told me to avoid it for, I decided to try to get a lift from there and I was really disappointed when I saw there wasn`t traffic at all, just one truck in a couple of hours... I started to think about quitting Dawson City for everywhere else, when I`ve been so lucky to meet Craig and Karen - a couple from Wyoming with the biggest and most beautiful motorhome I`ve ever seen - that offered me a lift directly to Dawson City, Canada, the capital of Yukon "Gold Rush", settled at the confluence of Yukon and Klondike rivers. Later in the evening, we went to see some Dawson City`s can-can dancers, while drinking loads of beer... Too funny! The town at night time was really beautiful: cold, dark, without tourists at all... It was for me like turning back to the last century!!! And then I slept in Craig & Karen`s motorhome: I`ve been very surprised about their hospitality, I`ve never experienced something like that before. Thanx!!! I don`t remember who wrote "People is the best show existing, and you don`t have to pay for the ticket to see it..." True. They also gave me a lift to Whitehorse, where I actually am, and which is the capital of Canadian Yukon Territories. When I arrived today, I`ve only had the time to enjoy a beautiful sun reflecting on the slow waters of the mythical and majestic Yukon river...
I`ll never forget people from Fairbanks, they all have been very kind and friendly with me. I`m writing from the tourist information centre and today I cycled the whole beautiful Gold Stream Valley, North of the downtown, in a foggy and rainy day: the road was beautiful, very quit and traffic free. Then I headed to the Silver Gulch brewery in Fox, where the owner - Dan - gave me a personal tour of the brewery and some glasses of its exceptionally good beer. Thank you guys, it`ll be very hard to leave this place!!!
I`ve just arrived in Fairbanks, built by pioneers last century, about 200 miles South of the Arctic circle. Today I had the bus tour into the Denali National Park, it was the last for the season, from tomorrow the park will be locked up to tourists. The day was rainy and cloudy but it definetely worth a visit. To get that bus I hitchiked yesterday to the park campsite and I overnighted with my tent there... It has been really hard `cause the weather has been quite frozen and I hadn`t neither a warm sleeping bag nor something to put under it... By the way I`ve got now a lift from Joseph, a cool guy from Fairbanks, who has brought me to the city and offered me to stay in his friend`s cabin. Now I`m with him in a great bar where he works on Sunday drinking and eating cool stuffs!!!
I`m in Talkeetna, a little cozy village built by pioneers and starting point for all the expeditions to Mount McKinley (the highest mountain in North America). I arrived here today, getting a lift in a motorhome from a kind german couple met in Anchorage. This is the "other"Alaska, far away from that bloody city which is Anchorage. This is the wild one, where nature rules and forests are endless... It has been a rainy day, but it wasn`t so heavy to stop me: just some waterproof clothes and I was ready to take a bike to discover this area. I wandered around the trails along the river Talkeetna and Susitna, and even if it`s cold (it`s going below zero...) the powerful colours of fall are really stunning... while the golden trees over my head make me feel like a king... Well, I gotta go: one more tea, then I`m gonna sleep on the coach of the hostel (more than an hostel is a private home... I`m alone with the whole house just for me!!!). Why on the coach? Easy, it`s cheaper than a bed...
This State looks similar to Norway, with higher mountains and more wilderness areas. Being in a such ourdoor sports heaven is great for me, but unfortunately I had to change some plans for this trip in Alaska due to bad weather and the wrong equipment for this season. By the way, in these days I enjoyed many sights in Anchorage, I`ve seen northern lights turning green the sky and I rented a bike to ride into forests searching for mooses or bears as well... no luck!!! I cycled the Tony Knowles coastal trail too, which was pretty cool and yesterday I hitchiked to Portage glacier for a 1 hour cruise in front of it. It has been quite expensive but it definetely worth a visit. To go there I`ve got a lift from Amanda - a cute girl from Frisco, living actually in Alaska - and for the way back I met Gustavo, a kind guy from Milwaukee with whom I also took the cable car in Girdwood to Alyeska Resort, for an unforgettable view of the valley. Today it was raining lightly and I`m thinking to move North soon.
It`s the first time in my life I`m outside from Europe! I`ve just arrived in Anchorage, Alaska, after an endless day. My flight has had a 7 hours delay so the airline has offered me a free room in a 5 star hotel with lunch and an afternoon tea with cakes... For what I`ve paid I guess it`s a very good deal!!! This country seems great, I only hope for the weather...